SS18 New York round-up
We have patiently been waiting, for I dunno, at least a month for a new fashion week to feed our ravenous eyes with more wardrobe cuisine. Copenhagen and Stockholm serve only as the hors d'œuvre to the main course; the marathon of ready-to-wear across New York, London, Milan and Paris. So, by the time the first heel hits the runway of New York my anticipation levels have reached that of Trump awaiting Kim Jong Un’s nuclear call. Totally ready to get the party started but invariably, it doesn’t live up to the hype. And this year, the phrase, “there’s nothing new” which always gets banded round the office, was regrattably true.
The absence of some big-name regulars was certainly felt. I missed Donna Karan, DKNY and Marc by Marc Jacobs. They add weight to the foundations on which the week rests. Big budget productions cast a spectacle to the proceedings as well as offering the luxury of creative freedom to the designers. What remains is a disjointed set of presentations sprawled across the city. A few of the old guard held their ends up. Marc Jacobs' for example, pulled a blinder; a polished, vibrant take on a 90s Street set in the silence of a gym hall. Coach similarly embellished on its signature 50s western look with shine, texture and an unexpected soft colour palette.
Overall this season, designers hunkered down and retreated to the comfort of their roots. It was as though a wave of populism had swept through the ateliers. The theme of Americana was strong throughout. Designers happily referenced the icons and clichés of the past. But not as a protest, nor could I detect irony. Just a statement, “this is who we are and what we do”. Calvin Klein referenced Westerns whilst cheerleading modern America’s glory years, the 50s. R13 did a fantastically styled show; referencing trucker looks, 90s grunge, diners and workwear denim. Many collections channelled what I consider to be New York’s recent heyday; late 80s/90s. With a familiar silhouette, soft, oversized tailoring, clean sportswear and separates. A look that has been ubiquitous with NYFW for the past few years.
Whilst I yearned for something to get my heart racing (and even my faves Lim and Lam didn’t do it), New York isn’t the ‘go to’ for the avant-garde. So, although I cannot giddily share the latest trouser shape or brand new movement, you can bet your bottom dollar that I’ll be spending all my pennies on those gorgeous vests, sweatshirts, jeans, shirts and tailoring that is delivered with excellence. So, here’s my city round-up. A smattering of trends, items, print, colour and fabric that caught my magpie.
Nostalgic and a little cliche but I like it. The best styled show for this is without a doubt, R13. Also loved Coach which has now cemented the fact that the boyfriend card is back.
A youthful and rebellious side to the 90s. Paid shirts, holed sweaters, combat pants and slip dresses form the base. It's a hard look to pull off when you lived through it the first time round. But for those young enough to see this with fresh eyes, it's fab. And if it feels teen spirit and it looks like teen spirit then it probably is.
It seems a little ironic that the designer who pioneered this clean, soft tailored look in the late 80s, Donna Karan, was absent from proceedings. Never fear, Donna my dear, your legacy lives on in a new generation. All the designers above gave beautifully grownup collections that can be worn with ease.
What the US don't know about denim, ain't worth knowing. Designers this season returned to the authenticity of blue for the most part, making the statement of wearing it to head-to-toe. Invest in classic separates and pile them on together with a pair of heels for work.
Need a little pep-up? Add sparkle to your day by rolling yourself in silver sequins. Coach style it best for the daytime.
Polka dots may not add anything new to your wardrobe but they are fabulously versatile. And as stripes are surprisingly absent for this Spring/Summer, they offer an easy alternative. I especially like the mix of scale from Jason Wu
Please don't yawn, I'm just reporting what I see.... Still lots of small, feminine florals across the runway. But hey, it's summer and that's what we tend to wear. Brock's were extremely delicate, soft and pastoral. Meanwhile, Kenzo offered ditsies in a more unexpected colouration.
spliced and tied
Exciting and experimental cutting and draping was seen in some shows. Lots of A-symmetry, straps, twists and knots giving an architectural feel to the clothes. I think this will be one of the biggest trends from NYFW that is adopted by the high street. Depending on the execution, it can suit all markets and ages.
it's still a frill
Yes, ruffles still prevail. It seems that New York hasn't finished with this overtly feminine detail. My favourite pics are above. Mixed prints and tiers are a fresh take.
Not for those with small children, living on a farm or catching the underground. If you have a personal valet then this is the colour for you.
This is a 2-for-the-price-of-1 trend deal. There is a lot of green from crayon, emerald and bottle to avocado which is my new fave since it reminds me of our old bathroom suite. Satin is also a hugely important fabric for summer. Add the 2 together et voila, you're on fashion fire.
Say hello to your new everyday jean. I know the skinnies are comfortable but it's time to let go. The authentic blue, high rise, straight leg has cemented it's place as a "key piece". What's better, you don't have to wait for Spring, you can buy them all over the place, right now.
If the idea of wearing your jacket wrapped diagonally across your body is a bit much may I suggest trying the a-symmetric thing in the form of a top. Lovely tie detailing at Wang or ruffles at Self Portrait. Failing that, cut off one of the sleeves of your blouse a la Frame above.
When shoulders go wide, the waist goes narrow. Fit and flare. A feminine silhouette, more contemporary than demure. Midi-long lengths are key.
The humble nightie gained notoriety with Courtney Love in the height of grunge in the 90s. it adds a soft romance to an otherwise boyish look. A beautiful piece, every wardrobe should have one even if yours never leaves the bedroom.
Don't get me wrong, there are also lots of pencil and column skirts on the runways too but this swishy number caught my eye. Best in satin and jersey crepes.
I don't think that I have ever been so excited about a jersey basic as I was when I saw Tibi's collection. I just love the high cut worn back with high waist trousers and jackets. Beautiful simplicity.
all photos sourced from vogue.com