SS18 Paris round up
It’s almost impossible to write about Paris Fashion Week without a tirade of French noises… Ooh, la la! Zut alors! C’est magnifique! Because it AWLAYS delivers the je ne sais quoi that the others don’t. New without the crazy, modest yet inherently sexy.
A huge number of historical references swept across the runways. Louis Vuitton was more Louis XIV, Stella McCartney looked actively 80s, Paco Rabanne had more sparkle than a 70s disco and Dior looked as though it was swinging to a sixties beat. Miu Miu gave my favourite retro spin though; I’m sure I can smell my Grandmother’s house and picture the Formica table she once had.
Atop of this melting pot of decades, designers pushed the very notion of clothes. See my slide below, Conjoined. As if the only way to create something new now, is to break clothing down and splice garments together. Is Frankinstein fashion the new black? Probably. Gvasala has more influence than any other at the moment. Portmanteau dressing, quite literally! The word jegging is so 2010 try Cench (cape/trench). I DO hope it takes off.
I want it ALL. But with so much to take in, who are the ones to watch and what are the big trends to invest in?
You may not have already noticed but I am a BIG Balenciaga, Demna Gvasala fan. This was another stellar collection that will not doubt have huge influence. Key items: Check shirt, reworked trench, lace trim cami, pencil skirt, cargo jeans, skinny rollneck sweater. Cult styling: wearing your sweater like a strait jacket.
All eyes on Claire Waight Keller’s debut for this house. She leads the parade on the biggest silhouette change in years. Key items: Silk dresses, Military jackets, miniskirts. Cult styling: Shoulder pads
JW Anderson’s seemingly eclectic show had all the key ingredients for the most luxurious and chic Summer wardrobes. I’ll have what she’s having. Key items: Logo sweatshirt, historical dress, fringed dress, A-symmetric ruffle dress. Cult styling: the tapestry shawl.
4. Off White
This collection best tapped into our nostalgic mood. Citing Lady Diana as inspiration, it hits the spot for channelling great 80s and 90s looks. Key items: Polka dot dress, 80s jeans, cropped jackets, power shoulders. Cult styling: 90s shades… now where did I last see my Oakley’s?
5. Saint Laurent
The more collections Anthony Vaccarello designs, the more I love them. French style epitomised. Effortlessly chic and sexy. Haute glamour as though Yves were still there. Key items: peasant blouse, LBD, mini skirts. Cult Styling: Legs
Like Siamese twins, it’s hard to know which personality is doing the talking. Are you wearing the trench? Or is the denim jacket taking centre stage? Why are there extra sleeves tied around you? Well, why not. Great for those, like me, who face the daily dilemma of what to wear. Because now you can wear it all. In one garment.
Off-beat, quirky colour palette, 60s prints, granny layering. As you know, I’m a big fan of Granny Chic and found these nostalgic references extremely comforting in a world that seems to be going all too fast sometimes. This trend says, it’s OK to pull out that vintage frock you’ve been wearing for 20 years if it still feels good.
I’m a little bored of talking about sportswear trends or the hateful word “Athleisure” if I’m honest. There's a lot of commentary on how "elevated" it is. I'm not sure how high it needs to be before one is jogging in a Celine calfskin cagoule?! But yes, it’s still here, and having seen the Isabel Marant show, I’m getting closer to breaking out the vintage shell-suit I bought this year. See more on sports in my NYFW post.
Be sure to pack your Safari jacket. This is a journey through the East picking up mementos along the way... I.e. a pair of curtains at Loewe.
The ethereal frock lifts my spirits. Pastoral whimsy, ruffles and sheer silk maxi dresses. All one needs is a sunny meadow for a slow-mo run.
On the Fringe
This looks great on the catwalk, all that movement as the 6 foot models sashay down the runways. The reality of me going A over T down the steps of the tube after getting my heel caught in my skirt? Less glam. Still, all in the name of fashion.
Paris put the shoulders first this Spring. And although this is not a new trend (see Balanciaga SS16 and my style hack post here) It was almost a common silhouette throughout PFW which means that it’s going the distance this time. I predict shoulder pads will be standard in all apparel by 2020.
This sartorial staple was a key piece in Paris too. Though, all is not as it seems… These macs were deconstructed, reconstructed, sometimes made of leather and part denim jacket (see Balenciaga)
The romantic in me just loves a peasant blouse. And these four examples have more swash-buckle than a 17th century labourer. Floaty silks and no decoration ensure its far more sophisticated than a Mills and Boon novel.
If you are going to wear any wash this summer make sure it a stone wash. And don’t stop with the jeans, wear it head-to-toe. Stella will be.
Monochrome spots still doing the rounds…. !!!
The historical sleeve
Wear your history on your sleeve this Spring. Channel any number of eras there’s bound to be one that’s right. See also LFW. I for one like a little drama in the arms.
Trouble and Stripe
The humble weekend staple of stripe top and denim is elevated to catwalk status. Add homemade slogans and graffiti for extra fashion creds.
The night dress as day dress trend continues from London to Paris. Very economical when you think about it; 1 dress gives 24hrs of wear, just like my deodorant.
I’m a lumberjack and I’m ok… A renewed focus on this plaid pattern. Tradition checks subverted in scale, fabrication and clever cutting.
This thinly veiled trend has run through all 4 fashion weeks so don’t down tulles just yet (so not sorry)
On His shoulders
Shoulders on softs were big but shoulders on tailoring are enormous. Be careful when entering a room, you may need to go in sideways.
This is great news if you have one dodgy shoulder and have struggled with the bandeau styles of the past few seasons. So, get to know your best side and let it free!
Only Le Parisians’ could pull off such a plunging neckline. How low do you go? Super sexy, usually in black. Oo la, la